The Chenin Renaissance
Chenin blanc, a white wine grape variety native to the Loire Valley in France, spent decades as an unrecognised and unappreciated wine in the eyes of Australians.
The first records of chenin blanc on the European continent date back to the 1500s, but it is believed to have originated many centuries earlier.
The modern history of chenin blanc begins in the 17th century, when it travelled from France to South Africa to become a hallmark white of the warmer region, it is only in recent years that the varietal’s popularity has resurged in our wine regions.
Initially, likely due to cost and availability, some young gun winemakers were experimenting with chenin. The fruit was cheap (sometimes free), and the final resemblance of any one chenin is a true reflection of the vineyard and the winemaking process - giving the winemakers a lot of room for experimentation.
Traditionally, the acidity in chenin is higher with distinctive textures in the profile. Considered somewhat of a chameleon variety, the sweet chenins of decades past have been replaced with clean, dry, crunchy pours.
We are lucky that some of the most mature chenin vines in Western Australia sit without our alliance of wineries. Coughlan Estate, some of the oldest vines in the Geographe Wine Region make their single site chenin from 30+ year old vines.
Similarly, the remarkable Julian Wright at Marri Wood Park planted his chenin block in the late nineties; his chalky balanced take on the French varietal is one for the cellar.
Check out some of the newest chenins by our alliance:
Marri Wood Park Chenin Blanc 2022
Chenin Blanc with immense cellaring potential is what Marri Wood Park are well known for, and this is another stunning vintage. 2022 is showing a beautifully luminous pale gold in the glass, with bright, fresh, lifted notes of green and red apples, sea spray and a hint of fresh toast on the nose.
On the palate there is beautifully crisp acid, complemented by some chalky undertones, more crunchy red apple flavours and a lingering mouth pleasing finish. This is looking fantastic now, and will happily sit in your cellar for at least 10 years, if not longer.
RRP $40
Coughlan Estate Chenin Blanc 2022
Yellow peach, shaved almond, wet slate and nougat greet on the nose. A generous palate of white pears, jasmine and green apples, boasting quenching acidity, minerality and pois. A textural and engaging finish laced with hints of lanolin, limes and dried thyme.
Winemaking Notes from Remi Guise - Fruit is hand-picked picked in the cool hours of the morning, gently destemmed and crushed, followed by 24 hours of skin contact before pressing. The pristine juice is extracted and cold-settled for 12 hours, before racking the cloudy juice to ferment. A cool fermentation at 12°C in seasoned barriques ensures retention of aromatics and fruit clarity while building palate weight and intricacy. Gentle fortnightly bâtonnage (stirring lees) adds a depth of flavour and textural complexity.
RRP $34
Trait Wines Chenin Blanc 2022
Small batch Chenin Blanc from Margaret River. Charged with electricity and bursting with citrus, this is a wine which is too easy to drink.
RRP - $33